Inverter-Chargers

Choosing an RV inverter-charger

The case for an inverter-charger over a separate inverter and converter is integration: one unit handles both directions of power flow and switches automatically when shore power comes and goes. That is worth the money in a boondocking or full-time rig where you want outlets alive off the battery and a proper multi-stage charge the moment you plug in.

• Continuous wattage. Size it to the loads you'll actually run at once. The XPower 1000 and 1500 in this category cover a microwave or a few outlets; a residential fridge plus electronics pushes you toward the larger Freedom-series units.
• Sine wave type. The Samlex SAM-250 and XPower units here are modified sine, which is fine for resistive loads and many appliances but can buzz motors and upset sensitive electronics. For CPAPs and delicate gear, step up to a pure-sine inverter or a pure-sine inverter-charger.
• Charger output and battery type. The charging half needs to match your bank: amp output sized to the battery capacity, and a profile that suits lead-acid, AGM, or lithium. Match it to your batteries and charging setup so you're not undercharging a big bank.
• Remote monitoring. Units like the Freedom SW and Freedom HF take a system control panel or Bluetooth remote, so you can see state of charge and change settings without crawling into the battery bay. The RJ45 network cables here connect those panels.
• Transfer speed. The built-in transfer switch decides how fast the unit hands off between shore and battery. Fast transfer keeps clocks and electronics from resetting when power drops.

Wire it to a battery bank that can actually deliver the current, and think about how the generator ties in; depending on your setup, a separate transfer switch may still be part of the picture.