Propane & LP Gas

Getting your RV propane connections right

LP gas is simple until a fitting leaks or a regulator quits, and then nothing downstream works: no heat, no hot water, no stove. Everything in this category is about a clean, sealed connection from the cylinder to the rig at the right pressure. The regulator does the core job, stepping the tank's high and variable pressure down to the steady low pressure appliances expect. A few things to get right:

• The regulator and its fittings. An LP regulator such as the Marshall Excelsior MEGR-130 uses specific inlet and outlet fittings, for example a 1/4-inch inverted flare, so match them to your existing plumbing before ordering. Two-stage regulators are the norm on RVs because they hold a steadier pressure as the tank drops and in cold weather.
• POL fittings and O-rings. The older POL connection at the cylinder seals on a small rubber O-ring, and a cracked or flattened one is a common slow-leak source that costs pennies to replace. Newer cylinders use the hand-tight ACME/Type-1 connector instead, so check which yours has.
• Quick-disconnect ends. A low-pressure quick-disconnect lets you tap the rig's onboard LP for a grill or fire pit without cutting into a permanent line. Match the size, commonly 1/4-inch, to your appliance hose.
• Covers and brackets. A snap-on cover keeps rain, road spray, and grit out of the regulator vent, since a plugged vent makes a regulator act erratically. A mounting bracket keeps the assembly steady on the A-frame or a flat surface.
• Tank scales and guards. A Bluetooth tank scale reports remaining propane before you run dry mid-trip, and a cylinder base guard protects the foot ring of a 20 to 40 lb DOT tank from rust and road damage.

Once the gas side is solid it feeds everything from the camp stoves and portable grills outside to the furnaces and heaters inside. If you ever smell gas or a fitting will not seat, stop and fix the connection before running anything on it.