RV Outlets & Receptacles
This is the category you dig into when you're adding a light, a fan, or a USB charger — or when a switch finally wears out after a decade of being thumbed on and off. It covers the 12-volt rocker and toggle switches that run most of an RV's house circuits, the 120-volt receptacles on the shore side, and the 12V and USB outlets that keep phones and tablets charged. Most are standard sizes, so a worn part usually drops straight into the existing opening.
92 products
RV Designer Single Rocker Switch Mounting Plate | Black, .550" x 1.125" Cutout
Whitecap Illuminated Rocker Switch | 12V, Momentary On/Off
Whitecap Rocker Switch | Mom-On/Off/Mom-On, 12V 15A, Black
White SPDT On/Off Switch | 16A Rocker Switch for RV Panels
JR Products SPDT On/On Rocker Switch | Brown, 16A @ 125 VAC
Prime Products White Exterior TV Receptacle | Plug-In, 75-Amp
Whitecap Rocker Switch | On/Off/On, 12V, Black
JR Products White Single Switch Face Plate | 3.4" x 0.7", Plastic
Whitecap Rocker Switch Mounting Plate | Center Position, Plastic
Whitecap Rocker Switch Mounting Plate | End Position, Plastic
Diamond Group Single Switch Wall Plate | White, Decorator Cutout
Furrion LIT Bluetooth Speaker Charging Dock | USB, Weatherproof
Picking switches, outlets, and receptacles
The first thing to sort out is which system you're wiring. An RV's lights, fans, and pumps almost all run on 12-volt DC, switched by the rocker and toggle switches that make up most of this category. Wall receptacles that look like the ones at home are 120-volt AC and only have power when you're on shore power, a generator, or an inverter.
- Switch style. Contura-style rockers are the modern RV standard and snap into ganged panels, while round toggles are common on older rigs and control boards. Match momentary (spring-back, for slide-outs and awnings) versus maintained (stays where you flip it) to the job.
- Amp rating. A switch has to carry the load it controls. A 15-amp rocker is fine for lights, but a motor or a bank of accessories may need a heavier switch or a relay.
- 12V and USB outlets. Combination units add USB-A and USB-C charging without tapping a 120-volt circuit — worth adding near the bed and dinette where devices pile up.
- GFCI receptacles. Code calls for GFCI protection near the sink, in the bath, and outside. A GFCI receptacle protects everything downstream of it, so one in the right spot can cover several plain outlets.
If a switch is dead but the circuit is live, the fault is often upstream at a fuse or breaker. If you're running a new circuit, the wire, connectors, and switch harnesses are in the next category over.