RV Bike & Cargo Racks
Hauling bikes and gear on an RV means dealing with two things a car doesn't: a receiver that's often already loaded and a ride that shakes cargo loose over miles of highway. This category covers hitch-mounted bike racks and shanks like the CURT ActiveLink, a Swagman roof rack for zero-frame-contact carry, plus the tie-down side of the house — SmartStraps adjustable bungees, forged bed anchors, and Dee Zee cast tie-down points. It's the stuff that keeps bikes and cargo where you put them.
81 products
Carrying bikes and gear without losing any
The two jobs here are different. A bike rack mounts your bikes on the receiver or roof; tie-downs and anchors secure loose cargo in a truck bed or trailer. Both come down to matching the hardware to what you're carrying and how it attaches to the rig.
- Receiver size and class. Hitch bike racks and shanks are built for a receiver size. A CURT ActiveLink shank is a 1-1/4" Class II accessory mount, so it fits smaller receivers; a 2" receiver needs the matching size. Check your opening before buying.
- Roof vs hitch mount. A roof rack like the Swagman Race Ready mounts to crossbars and clamps the wheels with zero frame contact, good for carbon frames. It also adds height, so watch clearances. Hitch racks load lower and easier but eat into receiver capacity.
- Bike fit. Step-through and women's frames don't have a straight top tube, so an adjustable bike rack bar like the CURT one bridges the gap and gives the rack something to clamp.
- Tie-downs and anchors. Adjustable-track bungees such as the SmartStraps and BungeeX sets flex to different loads, while forged bed-bolt anchors and Dee Zee cast tie-down points give you rated attachment spots — the forged eyelets here are rated 1,400 lb each. Anchor to rated points, not trim.
If your rack uses the receiver, keep the pin and lock sorted over on couplers and locks, and reducer sleeves or drop shanks live with the ball mounts and hitch balls. The full towing lineup is under hitches and couplers.